In Episode 2 of Black Genius, Lolade interviews Wunmi Olaiya, British Nigerian fashion designer and Afrobeats musician who featured prominently in Beyonce’s Black is King (song: Brown Skin Girl) released on Disney Plus earlier this month. In the laid back interview, we learn how Wunmi broke into the music industry, making a fashion statement everywhere she went.
Wunmi knew she wanted to be an artist while in grade school because she loved to dance. “I was basically the child everyone ignored until music came on and then no one ignored me at that point,” she says. Even though she had a zeal for dance, it was not something she was allowed to pursue as a young adult. Going to school at the age of 15, her father chose all of her classes for her and purposefully left out any arts subjects. During this time, Wunmi struggled to pass her classes, and would freeze up in exams, terrified of failure.
She fondly recalls watching her best friend produce art and even consider going to an art college. At the time, Wunmi was unaware that art schools were options available to her. One of her teachers suggested that she take art seriously, and she applied to London College of Fashion. Not only did she excel in her fashion studies, she found that her failing grades in other classes like math and english began to improve and she was able to pass.
Wunmi’s dance career took off while a fashion student. Discovered on the London night scene, she joined Soul II Soul as a dancer, traveled to New York City with them in ‘89 and performed in Harlem at the Palladium. After finishing undergrad, Wunmi found herself at a crossroads: she could either continue dancing or pursue a career in fashion. Roy Ayers, a mentor to Wunmi, convinced her to stay true to herself, whichever path she chose. “He said, ‘I have the presence of life that no money can buy’ and as long as I do not prostitute my soul, whatever it is that I choose to do…I would keep reaping from it.” As someone who did not know exactly what she wanted to do at the time, this was a huge help in deciding her next steps.
Wunmi’s luxury African fashion line, Wow Wow, was birthed not long after she left Soul II Soul. She first designed costumes for a choreographer friend’s performances as a barter for her rent. That friend was Ron Brown. She went on to design for him for 25 years, “his whole repertoire.” As Ron Brown recommended Wunmi to other choreographers, she became the first designer to craft costumes for two choreographers in one season for Alvin Ailey, whose company she would design for for a total of six seasons.
As a walking billboard for what was then known as Wunmigirl, she would receive constant requests from dancers to dress them. Wunmi’s fans and customers inspired her to name the line Wow Wow, reflect how they reacted to her pieces, and how she felt when she made something new. The acronym Wow Wow, expanding into “Want it, Own it, Wear it, Wunmi Olaiya Wear,” aptly captures the breathtaking nature of her pieces, and the silhouettes of her muses.
Learn more of Wunmi’s story in the full episode below or listen to it on Apple podcasts.