In a shocking turn of events, Mielle Organics, a beloved hair care brand marketed primarily to Black women, finds itself at the center of a lawsuit. The basis of this lawsuit is the allegation of failing to warn customers about a cancer-causing chemical lurking in its products. Several videos have surfaced on Tik Tok showing several Black women sharing their experiences of hair loss after using Mielle products.
Mielle Organics was founded in 2014 by Monique Rodriguez and the brand quickly rose to prominence as a Black-owned business, committed to creating natural hair care products. The brand’s popularity soared, particularly after gaining viral attention on social media platforms and securing major retail partnerships. Its success story seemed to embody the growing movement towards embracing natural hair textures and supporting Black-owned businesses in the beauty industry.
Mielle Organics happened to be particularly successful, due to having positioned itself as a solution to the longstanding issues that Black women have to deal with when it comes to their hair. Mielle Organics promised natural, effective products for Black hair. The company’s rapid rise to popularity was built on this promise of finally providing safe, tailored products for Black women’s hair care needs.
However, the current lawsuit alleges that despite its claims, Mielle Organics’ products contain undisclosed chemicals that can cause severe hair loss and potentially increase cancer risk. This accusation is particularly damaging because it suggests that even brands specifically marketing themselves as safe alternatives may be perpetuating the very problems they claim to solve.
The lawsuit against Mielle Organics didn’t emerge in isolation. It follows years of mounting evidence and growing concern about the safety of hair products marketed to Black women. Studies have consistently found higher levels of endocrine-disrupting chemicals in these products compared to those marketed to the general population. Additionally, research has linked the frequent use of hair relaxers to an increased risk of certain cancers, particularly uterine cancer.
As awareness of these issues grew, so did the frustration with the lack of regulatory action. Despite numerous calls for stricter oversight, the FDA’s regulation of cosmetics remains limited. This regulatory gap, combined with the historical neglect of Black women’s health concerns, created an environment where companies could continue to sell potentially harmful products with little consequence.
The lawsuit against Mielle Organics represents a tipping point in this long-simmering crisis. It embodies the growing demand for accountability and transparency in the Black hair care industry. More than just a legal challenge to one company, it’s a call to address the systemic issues that have allowed harmful practices to persist for generations
The roots of this problem stretch back to the early 20th century when the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led to the widespread use of chemical hair straighteners. Products like Madam C.J. Walker’s hair-straightening formula, while revolutionary for their time, set a precedent for using potentially harmful chemicals in Black hair care.
As the decades passed, the industry continued to evolve, but the underlying issues persisted. The 1960s and 70s saw the rise of more potent chemical relaxers, which promised longer-lasting straight styles but came with increased health risks. Simultaneously, the lack of research and development into safe, effective products for natural Black hair textures left many women with limited options.
From shampoos to relaxers, and even synthetic braids, it seems no corner of the Black hair care market is untouched by the specter of harmful chemicals. A recent study has gone so far as to reveal that synthetic braids, a popular protective style, are laced with cancer-causing agents. This begs the question: How, in 2024, are we still grappling with such a fundamental threat to Black women’s health?
The natural hair movement of the 2000s seemed to offer a solution, promoting a return to chemical-free hair care. However, as the demand for natural products grew, so did the number of companies rushing to capitalize on this market—sometimes at the expense of product safety and efficacy.
The FDA’s Role
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the federal agency tasked with protecting consumer health has a questionable track record of regulating harmful chemicals in hair care products, particularly those marketed to Black women.
The agency’s inaction persists despite mounting evidence of health risks and increasing pressure from lawmakers. In 2019, Congresswoman Ayanna Pressley (D-MA) spearheaded an effort, joined by her colleagues Reps. Ilhan Omar (D-MN), Barbara Lee (D-CA), and Marcia Fudge (D-OH), calling on the FDA to remove toxic chemicals from hair products marketed to Black women and other women of color. Their letter to then-FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb highlighted the disproportionate impact these products have on women of color and urged immediate action.
More recently, in 2022, Reps. Jan Schakowsky (D-IL) and Lizzie Fletcher (D-TX) introduced the Safer Beauty Bill Package, which includes provisions to ban toxic chemicals in cosmetics and require full ingredient disclosure. Despite these congressional efforts and overwhelming scientific evidence, the FDA has consistently delayed taking decisive action.
This pattern of delay raises troubling questions about the FDA’s priorities and processes. Why has the agency been so slow to act on what appears to be a clear and present danger to public health? The glacial pace of response inevitably leads one to wonder if there’s a racial disparity in how the FDA prioritizes health concerns. After all, products predominantly used by Black women seem to remain on the market despite known risks, while other consumer safety issues often receive swifter attention.
Moreover, we must examine the systemic barriers preventing swift and decisive action. Is it a lack of resources, bureaucratic red tape, or perhaps industry influence that’s stalling progress? The FDA’s reluctance to exercise its authority in this realm is particularly puzzling given its mandate to protect public health.
When one takes a more cursory look at this issue, it becomes clear that the FDA’s role – or lack thereof – is a critical piece of the puzzle. The agency’s continued inaction not only puts consumers at risk but also raises serious questions about equity and justice in our regulatory systems. Until these questions are answered and meaningful action is taken, Black women will continue to bear the brunt of this regulatory failure, forced to choose between their health and their hair care.
A Call for Change
Over the years, numerous groups have reached out to the FDA, demanding action. The Environmental Working Group, for instance, has long advocated for stricter regulations on hair care products. In 2019, the Environmental Working Group, along with Women’s Voices for the Earth and other organizations, petitioned the FDA to ban formaldehyde in hair straighteners and smoothing treatments.
Similarly, the Black Women for Wellness organization has been at the forefront of this fight, conducting research and advocacy work to highlight the disproportionate impact of toxic chemicals on Black women’s health.
It’s crucial to understand that this problem doesn’t exist in a vacuum. The use of potentially harmful products is often intertwined with complex societal pressures and beauty standards that have historically marginalized Black hair textures. Many Black women feel compelled to use these products to conform to Eurocentric beauty ideals in professional and social settings.
In addition to this, the lack of safe alternatives highlights a gap in the market that has long prioritized profit over health. This raises questions about representation in the beauty industry and the need for more Black-owned businesses that prioritize safety and efficacy.
Moving Forward
As we confront this ongoing crisis, it’s clear that meaningful change will require a multifaceted approach. The FDA must step up with increased regulatory oversight and swift action, moving beyond its history of delay to actively protect consumers. Simultaneously, hair care companies need to embrace radical transparency about their ingredients, acknowledging that their customers’ health is paramount. This transparency should be coupled with extensive research into safe alternatives for Black hair care, ensuring that women don’t have to choose between their health and their hair.
However, change cannot come from regulatory bodies and corporations alone. Education and awareness campaigns are crucial to empower consumers, providing them with the knowledge to make informed decisions about the products they use. These efforts should highlight not only the potential risks of certain products but also celebrate the beauty and versatility of natural Black hair, challenging long-standing beauty norms that have contributed to this crisis.
Central to this movement forward must be support for Black-owned businesses committed to creating safe products. These companies, born from the community they serve, often have a deeper understanding of both the unique needs of Black hair and the importance of prioritizing health. The lawsuit against Mielle Organics, while troubling, is just the tip of the iceberg. It serves as a reminder of the work that still needs to be done. As this story unfolds, it is clear that the time for change is long overdue, and it will take a concerted effort from all sectors – regulatory, corporate, and community – to ensure that Black women can care for their hair without compromising their health